If you strip out a torx bolt head your got a big problem, so heres a way to do it without worrying about stripping out the bolt heads. To remove the valve body while gearbox is in car, requires torx t30 head, the bolts are extremely tight and its easy to strip out the head of the bolt. Heres some pics of the stripdown and some tips. I did note that there is small rattle in the s5 but not as loud as the other ( on/off) solenoids.ĭoing some work on an ef falcon wagon btr gearbox, it has some flare and rough shifts especially noticeable when the gearbox gets hotter.
Note2: the s5 solenoid is not testable with 12v, need pwm controller such as rc plane servo tester, Note: petrol had no adverse effect on the solenoids. So give another spray with wd40.should be good to go. No return spring, give it a shake to return the plunger to original position then it willĪfter washing with petrol if you leave em its possible rust will form internally ( not sure), When you first apply power you should hear a click, but it wont click again, theres Tabs, dont have to worrry about polarity. You can use 12v no problem it wont burn em out, just need to touch the 12 onto the It appears the solenoids dont have a return spring inside, must use the pressure of the oil. start shaking them again, should be rattling as plunger moves. give the solenoid a good wash out with petrol, shake it in the petrol, I gotĪ few bits of crud came as hard small lumps.Ĥ. Shake the solenoid again, hopefully you'll now hear a rattle, shake it to loosen upģ. The solenoid ( not hard enough to damage the plastic but pretty hard knocks) Knock the solenoid onto a metal surface, to help loosen it, hit both ends of shake the solenoid, to hear if the plunger moves, if it doesn't rattle, then spray wd40 into the solenoids once removed, leave overnight to let itĢ. Which scan tool did you use which works on an au1 falcon?Īlso I've worked out simple method to repair sticky solenoids, simple as:īasically shake the solenoid if the plunger is loose you can hear it rattle,ġ. I'm therefore left with two assumptions either the armature is stuck or due to the low wattage the armature movement is very low and there is some form of pilot/ servo action within the solenoid valve body that increased the force applied when in the presence of an oil supply.
Also the coil resistance and associated current has remained constant (the coil neither short circuited or open circuited). One observation I did make during testing is that if the solenoid was indeed operational then when I initially applied power (I used my laboratory power supply not a starter battery) then I would of expected to feel an almightly joult as the armature moved followed by the buring out of the coil. Unfortunately I can't find any datasheets on these solenoids however for comparison I've attached a Bosch Rexroth datasheet of a slightly higher power solenoid for comparison (DC supply voltage, current and power) As you'll note this power level is very low and the actual solenoid is lower than this (5.78W). As you'll note the resistance of this is far higher than the VPS (23 to 45 ohms).Īssuming a supply voltage of 12V and a coil resitance on the bottom end of specification (23ohms), and ohms law results in a coil power of 6.2W and a current of 0.52A. The solenoid in question is not the VPS but rather one of the shift solenoids (S1). The S5 is intended to be supplied via a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) supply and it is the variance of this supply (duty cycle) that is used to regulated the hydraulic line pressure within the gearbox and thereby vary the line pressure during shifts etc. I'm sorry to say this but I think you maybe mixing your solenoids up, unless I'm mistaken.įrom my understanding the S5 variable pressure solenoid (VPS) can indeed be damaged by a continuous DC supply, due to the coil resistance being low (from memory around 5 ohms).